Addressing every luxury brand presented during fashion week, and getting released at the speed of light, fashion show reviews are genuinely informative and valuable. However, not everyone has the time or fancy a deep dissection of each show full of luxury fashion terms, long explanations of inspirations and references, and reports on the symbolic messages creative directors tried to send out. As busy as life gets, some of us need a reminder of such simple things as what RTW actually stands for. (RTW means Ready-to-Wear, my busy friend)
Valuing your time and with the privilege of independent publishing, I select fashion shows that seem the most relevant to me in this pile of luxury fashion. I speak about the clothes from my perspective, without referring to press releases, and keeping it as relevant to you as possible.
Filtering fashion noise, I have highlighted the most memorable runway looks from Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear. While my fashion brands selection is purely personal and subjective, I try to deliver the most currently popular and actively discussed brands by giving you my pinpoints on their collections.
Alexander McQueen
Although the key print of the collection felt outdated on the opening look, it later regained its force on the rest of the designs. As for the second look, while I do not have much enthusiasm for low-waisted pants of any kind, I was nostalgically pleased to see them. Then there was a pleated white dress that screamed violence in quite a beautiful way. Overall, the McQueen house, like most luxury fashion brands this season, did not present anything mind-blowing. That said, it was still a respect-worthy and aesthetically comforting collection, faithfully based on the brand’s identity.
The award for the best execution of a tailored jumpsuit from Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear should go to Sarah Burton.
The tailoring work on the pantsuit in ocean blue was irresistible.
Naomi’s look felt like a regrettable choice.
Although the all-denim look brought me fashion deja-vu, I found it extremely attractive.
Images: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Acne Studios
Acne has given us a spring-blooming punk. Putting on that mini lace dress adorned with a blue bow that opened the show, I imagine one’s character switching to their sweetest innocent side. But throw a masculine oversized blazer on top, and they would feel themselves again. Overall, the mix of nearly childish innocence and edgy punk mood reflects Acne’s identity very well.
Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Balenciaga
Balenciaga is giving more and more gender-neutral looks, which is very times-relevant. This heavily dark collection, enhanced by an incredible runway arrangement and a very powerful soundtrack, was attention-worthy whether you are into this kind of aesthetics or not. On another note, is writing Balenciaga on pieces still necessary?
Ye opened the show.
Images: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Balmain
Balmain's collection should have been separated by groups, as Oliver seemed to have too much to say. Like a walk in a museum, the number of art references and other design details was overwhelming. However, it was nice to see meaningful print blended with draping. While some looks hit the spot, others looked like costumes borrowed from a movie set team.
There was also a shy touch on size diversity.
I did not understand what the ethnic referencing was doing there.
At times I imagined I was witnessing a Yamamoto and Rick Owens fusion.
It would not hurt to narrow down the selection of designs Balmain sent on the runway.
Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta’s contrast of the wearable luxury casual and the runway extravagance looked tastefully direct. The show’s soundtrack, that made its return all the way from The Matrix, added a nice touch.
Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Blumarine
Blumarine has brought back the rust-washed denim, and it was about time.
There was a sweet Juicy Couture reference.
Absolutely stunning studded oversized denim shirts and jackets.
Beautiful jersey drapery.
Fashion nostalgia was at its best in the styling.
"Yes" to the black gothic pants.
The execution of the all-denim mermaid look felt a bit costumey.
Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Burberry
Farewell, Riccardo Tisci!
His final collection at the Burberry house was "a bit of everything" in the best traditions of genius Tisci; some looks even reminded his good times at Givenchy. On another note, some designs raised practical concerns, while the eccentricity of those did not seem strong enough for a runway statement.
There was a lot of denim.
I appreciated the good old edgy masculine silhouettes.
The romantic looks in pale pastels were refreshing.
Playing with those swimming armbands-like purses did not do much.
