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Spring 2023 RTW Editor's Highlight

Addressing every luxury brand presented during fashion week, and getting released at the speed of light, fashion show reviews are genuinely informative and valuable. However, not everyone has the time or fancy a deep dissection of each show full of luxury fashion terms, long explanations of inspirations and references, and reports on the symbolic messages creative directors tried to send out. As busy as life gets, some of us need a reminder of such simple things as what RTW actually stands for. (RTW means Ready-to-Wear, my busy friend)

Valuing your time and with the privilege of independent publishing, I select fashion shows that seem the most relevant to me in this pile of luxury fashion. I speak about the clothes from my perspective, without referring to press releases, and keeping it as relevant to you as possible.

Filtering fashion noise, I have highlighted the most memorable runway looks from Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear. While my fashion brands selection is purely personal and subjective, I try to deliver the most currently popular and actively discussed brands by giving you my pinpoints on their collections.

Alexander McQueen

Although the key print of the collection felt outdated on the opening look, it later regained its force on the rest of the designs. As for the second look, while I do not have much enthusiasm for low-waisted pants of any kind, I was nostalgically pleased to see them. Then there was a pleated white dress that screamed violence in quite a beautiful way. Overall, the McQueen house, like most luxury fashion brands this season, did not present anything mind-blowing. That said, it was still a respect-worthy and aesthetically comforting collection, faithfully based on the brand’s identity.

  • The award for the best execution of a tailored jumpsuit from Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear should go to Sarah Burton.

  • The tailoring work on the pantsuit in ocean blue was irresistible.

  • Naomi’s look felt like a regrettable choice.

  • Although the all-denim look brought me fashion deja-vu, I found it extremely attractive.

Images: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Acne Studios

Acne has given us a spring-blooming punk. Putting on that mini lace dress adorned with a blue bow that opened the show, I imagine one’s character switching to their sweetest innocent side. But throw a masculine oversized blazer on top, and they would feel themselves again. Overall, the mix of nearly childish innocence and edgy punk mood reflects Acne’s identity very well.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /


Balenciaga is giving more and more gender-neutral looks, which is very times-relevant. This heavily dark collection, enhanced by an incredible runway arrangement and a very powerful soundtrack, was attention-worthy whether you are into this kind of aesthetics or not. On another note, is writing Balenciaga on pieces still necessary?

  • Ye opened the show.

Images: Courtesy of Balenciaga


Balmain's collection should have been separated by groups, as Oliver seemed to have too much to say. Like a walk in a museum, the number of art references and other design details was overwhelming. However, it was nice to see meaningful print blended with draping. While some looks hit the spot, others looked like costumes borrowed from a movie set team.

  • There was also a shy touch on size diversity.

  • I did not understand what the ethnic referencing was doing there.

  • At times I imagined I was witnessing a Yamamoto and Rick Owens fusion.

  • It would not hurt to narrow down the selection of designs Balmain sent on the runway.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta’s contrast of the wearable luxury casual and the runway extravagance looked tastefully direct. The show’s soundtrack, that made its return all the way from The Matrix, added a nice touch.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /


Blumarine has brought back the rust-washed denim, and it was about time.

  • There was a sweet Juicy Couture reference.

  • Absolutely stunning studded oversized denim shirts and jackets.

  • Beautiful jersey drapery.

  • Fashion nostalgia was at its best in the styling.

  • "Yes" to the black gothic pants.

  • The execution of the all-denim mermaid look felt a bit costumey.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /


Farewell, Riccardo Tisci!

His final collection at the Burberry house was "a bit of everything" in the best traditions of genius Tisci; some looks even reminded his good times at Givenchy. On another note, some designs raised practical concerns, while the eccentricity of those did not seem strong enough for a runway statement.

  • There was a lot of denim.

  • I appreciated the good old edgy masculine silhouettes.

  • The romantic looks in pale pastels were refreshing.

  • Playing with those swimming armbands-like purses did not do much.

Images: Courtesy of Burberry


My first thought was that, at this point, I could not tell one Chanel season from another. However, later, I realized that this collection had a more relaxed feel; the loose silhouettes gave certain ease to an overall style direction. How attractive and youthful were most of the looks, especially those in black? Some looked like a perfect chic skater outfit. It was also refreshing to see a few plus-size models on the runway. Fortunately, when it came down to the plus-size pieces, the work ethic at Chanel did not fail the French fashion house; their models wore runway designs instead of lazy basics.

  • I loved the mini a-line polka dot dress.

  • A mini a-line tweed dress adorned with colorful feathers looked very fortunate.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /


  • Boring blazer cuts.

  • The fashion house played it too safe, but that one denim look was so ever good.

  • Still a beautiful collection, though.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /

Christian Dior

Dior gave a mix of mature and youthful. However, some Dior signature looks felt unnecessary. The collection was inspired by the French royalty of Italian origin, queen Catherine de Medici, and that was easy to read.

  • Dark, chic, and cool.

  • Pleasing color combinations.

  • There were many looks to like.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /

Christopher Kane

While Vogue Runway loved this collection, I found it a bit outdated. Although, some pieces were pretty cool.

  • Transparent vinyl straps.

  • A lot of lingerie lace.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /

Comme des Garçons

As per usual, there was nothing wearable on the runway. It was a traditionally expected demonstration of art pieces in the best traditions of Comme des Garcons. If you want to see what is happening in the real world, go to the Comme des Garcons stores.

Images: Courtesy of Salvatore Dragone /


Is there any point in discussing the collection if all we will remember is Bella Hadid’s astonishing finale moment? Yes. Coperni introduced a beautiful fusion of the edgy Matrix notes with sexy lace and intimate silk, all freshened up with sporty pieces and see-through mesh tops that never fail.

  • The black low-rise pants with cutouts on the hips have got me excited.

  • The Coperni’s cargo pants had some of the best fit this season.

Going back to the final act, Bella’s statue-like body, which is a work of art on its own, should be given additional credit in that specific moment.

Images: Courtesy of Coperni

David Koma

Some hippie-surfer vibes felt unattractive. However, the dark drapery with silk and see-through details was very seductive. I did not find anything particularly exciting about the looks in the blue marine color, except for the long coat.

Overall, I felt like this collection could dress the next Fast & Furious cast. However, it was the signature David Koma with respect for current fashion trends and an easily-detected story.

  • A very cool acid-die print.

  • I did not get the starfish detail.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /

Dolce & Gabbana

I would not like to focus on this whole Kim collaboration. Overall, this collection was a sweet tribute to the brand’s classics, beautifully executed in a current direction of trends and style.

  • Irresistible tailoring and very relevant denim.

  • Nice and quite a consistent size inclusion.

  • A sweet nostalgic throw at the iconic Dolce & Gabbana leopard print.

I found it very ironic how a person who claimed to discover her high-fashion identity just a minute ago has collaborated with a huge Italian fashion house on an entire collection.

Images: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni /

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani showed beautiful pieces that were absolutely painful to look at. As much as I love and respect Giorgio Armani as an iconic Italian fashion designer and a business empire creator, it is getting mentally hard to see the same pieces on the runway season after season. The styling and the stage set were, perhaps, the most horrifying part of it all.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /


Fendi or Bottega a couple of years ago?

It seems like this collection is meant for the hard lovers of the spring palette.

Some styles felt very unexpected, as if they returned from the kind of past that we have not yet made a trend of. So those looks seemed simply outdated.

  • Gorgeous tailored silk.

  • Cute knit, but too bad you can find the same in Zara.

Images: Courtesy of Salvatore Dragone /


Maximilian Davis presented his debut collection at Ferragamo, and it was refreshing, yet with a hint of respect to the fashion house’s established conservatism. However, I found the stage design more intriguing than the collection itself.

Let’s face it, after the colossal embarrassment Ferragamo faced with its racist mess seeded right at the very heart of the Italian luxury brand, hiring a talent of African descent was also a long overdue political move.

  • The styling was very tasteful.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli gave us a typically so ever airy and magnetizing collection. Although the styles were on the edge of outdated, it was nice to see something so positive and light in the season of the dark Matrix-inspired trends.

  • Trend relevance - perhaps lies in the sunglasses.

  • A sweet, like cotton candy collection.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Giorgio Armani

Emporio and Giorgio Armani; do we really need both on a runway? Wouldn't it be nice to stop the Emporio Armani shows so we would then only complain about the other one?

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /


I sensed a reference to Chanel that came off a bit too strong. Other than that, you just want to be that girl; sexy, feminine, and very capable of breaking someone’s jaw if necessary. It was an aesthetically pleasing conversation between Matthew Williams and Carine Roitfeld.

  • Never pink and grey looked so cool.

  • I would like to see all those black blazers in my closet.

  • Matthew Williams understands well that we will never stop wearing jeans with a black oversized blazer. He just gets it.

Images: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni /


So, all models were twins, and they were dressed so ever good and styled in such best traditions of the Gucci house. I personally loved Furby as accessories and a print. Question: Did you ever think there were so many twins in the modeling industry?

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /


It is nice to see how the iconic luxury brand stays within its identity yet is in touch with reality.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /

Issey Miyake

  • I absolutely loved the power-shoulders trench.

  • Beautifully cut tailored pieces.

  • A delightful incorporation of Miyake’s signature pleats into the tailored pieces.

  • A great combination of fabric manipulations and silhouettes.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /


Nigo has given us a collection that was not groundbreaking and quite far from today’s fashion trends. It felt childish. However, there were some looks that succeeded in being very much on point. Whether you liked the creative direction or not, there was a sense of strong identity. With that said, the sailing reference came on too strong and hence gave a costumey aftertaste. I also felt like some sort of claim on the Tom Brown styling worked ironically well. Overall, there is a strong potential for growth toward actual high fashion. However, so far, it was yet another proof that a fashion style icon and luxury guru might not necessarily be a quality luxury fashion designer.

  • The tailoring of suits was unattractive.

  • Beautiful cardigans and baseball jackets fused with the sailing theme.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /


It was a privilege to witness such a tasteful and fashion-intelligent collection, the kind of collection you want to sneak out and lock in your closet to wear every look day by day. There was a slightly weak reference to some of the iconic fashion houses, which was absolutely forgivable.

  • There were nostalgic basics and moody statement outerwear.

  • That foggy aesthetic of the early 00s has worked incredibly well.

Images: Courtesy of Khaite

  • Easy to digest, wearable, cool, and smart enough fashion.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

LaQuan Smith

If tasteful vulgarity existed, that would be LaQuan Smith’s work, and I mean it in the most respectful and complimenting way. It is like a mature self-respected woman was let on the loose.

  • A fabulous (in the SATC Samantha’s voice) collection - sexual, fun, and very entertaining fashion to look at.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /


Loewe gave us a spring collection, as literally as it can get on a runway. Some pieces were wearable, while some were not so much. But boy, were they the most joyful to look at!

  • Refreshing flower-like dress silhouettes.

  • As far as my memory goes, the coolest pixel print ever.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Louis Vuitton

I did not quite understand if we are actually meant to wear these clothes, or better if we just stick to the beloved Louis Vuitton bags.

  • The jacket with the quilted lapel was drool-worthy.

  • The exaggerated details have eventually grown on me.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /


Marni pleased us with a capitative play of colors. On another note, it would be nice to see more complicated-design pieces on plus-size models instead of those eye-skipping basics the brand had put on them.

  • I loved the shades of mustard and dreamy lavender.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Max Mara

Max Mara gave us pleasant and reliable tailoring. However, nothing too exciting.

It felt like some looks only looked this good thanks to models’ faces or their body silhouettes.

  • I am going to need someone to explain those hats.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /


Missoni presented quite a stand-alone collection that did not blend with the rest of the fashion shows. I found that satisfying. There was Missoni’s signature direction with fun pop colors, cool knit print, and feminine silhouettes. In other words - fruity lollipops. I was also happy to see Joanna Smalls closing the show.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /

Miu Miu

Although I sense that we will soon miss the candy notes of typical Miu Miu, its newly adopted dark direction seems more relevant to these days fashion. With that said, there were a few pieces left for the loyal Miu Miu sequins lovers.

  • Beautiful heavy brown-leather looks.

  • Some looks were one step too close to Prada

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /

MM6 Maison Margiela

In the best traditions of MM6 Maison Margiela, this collection was edgy, moody, and quite youthful. While there were some stunning slim-silhouette draped pieces, I must admit, the prolonged blazers were not at all that exciting.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /


Imagine if a successful woman with an office job has lost her mind and then gone on a vacation somewhere in Malibu. Perhaps one of Jeremy Scott’s strongest qualities is turning a hideous look into something actually pleasing. He is a master of cartoony in luxury fashion, which is what a newbie like Nigo is missing at Kenzo.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /


It was a bittersweet experience to see the Off-White collection; while we are still hurting from such a tragic loss of Virgil Abloh, it is good to see his legacy continuing.

It was a beautiful team effort, understanding, and development of Abloh’s initial brief for this collection. Solid designs and memorable pieces left us hopeful to witness a never-ending celebration of Virgil in the form of blooming and standing strong Off-White.

Perhaps, one symbolic touch that was missing at the show was the presence of Virgil’s usual models. It would be meaningful to see the faces of those like Bella, Kendall, and others close to the late designer, especially considering that Virgil himself started this collection. However, for all I know, their absence could be reasonable. Who knows…

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Paco Rabanne

I felt like Paco Rabanne met Alexander McQueen somewhere in a dark alley and developed a seasonal crush.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Peter Do

Everyone in fashion industry seems to love Peter Do. Why? Well, I certainly appreciate him for the clarity of his direction. This collection was self-explanatory, definite, and direct. The pieces were daring but easily wearable. This made the collection both artistic and practical. It had just enough edge and femininity. However, having only one plus-size model at the show who has walked out only once felt forced, like a fake effort.

Images: Courtesy of Monica Feudi / Peter Do


(Drumrolls) And the best styling of Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear goes to Prada’s eyelashes! The looks, on the other side, are not so mind-blowing. I sensed a solid reference to Prada’s dark aesthetics from a couple of decades ago. While some runway looks came off a bit boring, those same pieces would kill if styled well.

  • I refuse to understand those shirt-onesies.

  • Mayby, just maybe, that final look with a long wool coat and lime shoes could handle the Prada onesie…

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /

Proenza Schouler

Sometimes, there are good collections that do not leave much to say. Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2023 was precisely the case. Maybe it was because there were too many strong elements, so I could not tell which one to jump on; from volume parachute skirts and fringe tops to massive polka dot print and knitted mesh. Or, perhaps, you fancy a white Athens-style dress? In other words, there is something for everyone.

  • There was also a blast from the past, in a form of the 70s-inspired jumpsuit.

  • And if that is not enough, there was a pair of lace flared pants…

Images: Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler

Raf Simons

Remember that last year’s Burberry campaign shot on one of London’s coolest streets, Bricklane? Well, Raf Simons’ tribute to the city was not as direct but also very warm. His references, although there were a few quite obvious ones, had a strict sense off high-fashion elegance. Yet of course, there was that bold attitude which is so typically expected from Raf. You could smell the hint of East London kids and their youthful crave for revolution of any sort. The collection’s reference was so delicate that it kept you on the edge of wishing more, yet not quite.

I personally dreamed of foggy London mornings somewhere far out in Walthamstow…

Images: Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Raf Simons

Rejina Pyo

Rejina Pyo has given us a constant presence of healthy body inclusion. The collection looked simple, wearable, and stress-free. There were very satisfying loose-tailored pieces and irresistible “simple femininity” dresses. I also spotted a very cool color-block denim.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Richard Quinn

Often a collection this powerful is difficult to style. However, here the styling was absolutely flawless.

  • Bravo to the leather gloves and latex leggings.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Rick Owens

While still authentic to Rick, this collection seemed to speak to a broader audience. There were oddly light and feminine gowns, and those were an absolute delight. A slightly overwhelming amount of fabric manipulations worked surprisingly well.

  • There were pink looks on the runway.

  • As per usual, the show was held at the stares of Palais de Tokyo

Images: Courtesy of Salvatore Dragone /


The main reason I was so intrigued to see this collection was how brilliantly it was crashed by the Vogue Runway critic Luke Leitch. Indeed, there was not a single drop of overdramatizing. The entire collection looked like a final project of a second-year fashion design student. While Leitch justified Charles de Vilmorin’s underperformance with the designer’s inexperienced youth, I question if that is a reason enough to lack taste to this extent.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /


When it comes to fashion, Chitose Abe has a remarkable intuition that doesn’t fail her. If Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear had a collection from which I would like to wear nearly every look, it would most certainly be the one by Sacai. I could write paragraphs about Abe’s on point tailoring, well-sized pleats, unforgettable blazer-body dress, stylish exaggerated pockets, the most ever chic tracksuit made in so ever delightful mocha brown with contrasting purple side-stripes, an open-shoulders dropped blazer, a dreamy oversized black shirt, a purple trench coat with open flared sleeves, a rain jacket fused with a chiffon blouse, metallic flared pants, and much more. Instead, I strongly encourage you to go to Vogue Runway and see it yourself.

  • A special thank you to Kendrick Lamar for that “I GOT A FEELING I’M GON’ BE ALRIGHT” oversized, long-sleeve t-shirt, I presume.

Images: Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch /

Saint Laurent

I definitely had that “I want all my clothes to be Saint Laurent” moment. The aesthetic mood reminded me of a midnight hour in New York.

  • There were long leather coats to drool over, and yes, they came in different colors.

  • The maxi slim dresses with draped hoodies were so ever good; we don’t deserve them.

  • Who would have ever thought a leopard print could feel intimate?

  • The wool coats with powerful oversized shoulders were flawless.

  • Such a tasteful color palette.

  • We have already witnessed Saint Laurent Spring 2023 on Beyonce and Hailey Bieber. While Hailey looked sexy-cute, Beyonce gave us a Saint Laurent queen moment.

  • Saint Laurent has offered us their stylish alternative to the trending Matrix-inspired type of sunglasses.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /


Daniel Roseberry showed us the kind of chic extravaganza that we can actually put to use in everyday life. Well, at least some of us can (not me, though). Although styling seemed on the edge of cartoony, it felt appropriate within the norms of Schiaparelli and quite amusing. I, at times, thought, “If Moschino had an intimidating wealthy and very life-experienced grandmother, she would be dressed in Schiaparelli.”

  • It must have become the brand’s tradition to ensure at least one naked breast per season.

Images: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney's collection was typically well tailored but also sexy. The volume shoes seemed necessary, as they added an almost missing “cool kid” note.

  • It was the best classic loose denim & oversized blazer look from Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear.

  • There were attention-worthy bags.

  • I enjoyed that very well tailored jumpsuit look.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior / Paolo Lanzi / Salvatore Dragone /

Thom Browne

My first thought on this collection was - egocentric and unwearable. The later revealed looks still seemed on the edge of unwearable to me. However, there were a few in between that I found glorious.

  • My favorite looks are highlighted below.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /


What, no more pink?… Pierpaolo Piccioli has given us a beautiful and delicate simplicity, which was delightfully fused with an extravaganza. For dessert, Valentino served its traditional minimalistic gowns in black, and they were as typically iconic.

  • That maxi red shirt dress with a cape was something to note.

  • Piccioli is ensuring us with masculine shoulders for as long as fashion can bear it. Personally, I think the longer, the better.

  • The sequined hoodie was a dream.

  • It is quite difficult to create something attention-worthy out of a white shirt, but that oversized white shirt styled with the midi bell-shaped skirt was a top notch look.

  • The tuxedo dress was as dreamy as the vampire vibes it gave.

Images: Courtesy of Velentino


Not everyone was ready for what Versace had on the menu this season. I personally digested it well—a pile of cleverly organized fabric-pattern-color-style mess. However, I did not buy into the final lingerie-style dresses, as the execution came off chip. Then Paris Hilton closed the show; and her look led us to a very confusing discussion. I could not care for it much, but I found the pink Barbie-reminding heels amusing.

Images: Courtesy of Filippo Fior /

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham has given us a clean and elegant collection. Luckily it was not on the edge of boringly outdated side of the “clean and elegant”.

Images: Courtesy of Isidore Montag /


Imagine if Rick Owens and Denma decided to throw a collaboration on a 5$ budget. While someone with a powerful imagination tries to predict Ye’s potential and sparkle a hope for his future in luxury fashion, the rest probably wish Ye sent his team to a pattern-making school.

  • Having Michèle Lamy modeling was a nice touch.

  • Question No1: Did Naomi’s presence have enough power to fix however much needed to be fixed at that show?

  • Question No2: Why does nobody wonder if the “White lives matter” t-shirts were possibly meant to be a sarcastic opening to a discussion on the ignorant defense reaction so many white people have when it comes to the life-frightening racial situation in The US and many other countries?

Images: Courtesy of Yeezy

Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Trends Summary

To give an overall idea about what will be going on in fashion soon, here are my thoughts on the Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Week season:

From what I see, in fashion, there is an apparent willingness to return to the early 00s. Mainly for the following reasons:

  • The sensuality of lingerie lace, which was so welcomed back then in the forms of dresses and tops that went with jeans

  • Adorable Juicy Couture era

  • The foggy dark aesthetic on the edge of punk that covered both the luxury fashion houses in those days and the general editorial styling.

It felt like it would be fairly easy for everyone to find something relatable this season, as some creative directors may have covered one too many topics.

It also seemed that some luxury fashion brands collectively would like to see us aging backward. However, they kept a few mature and brilliantly tailored options to play it safe.

Based on what was previously said, there was one return that seemed very expectable and appropriate; cargo pants.

P.S. Although having plus size models on the runways of more and more luxury fashion brands is a long-over-due change in a healthier direction, it seems like the homework is only being done halfway. I expect strong, complicated designs executed and demonstrated on plus-size models. For now, most luxury fashion houses have had at least one of the two misfires; the look assigned to a plus-size model was unapologetically basic, or the casting’s healthy initiative had only stretched as far as having one plus-size model per show.

P.S. No2 This Fashion Week season might have marked the top of Bella Hadid’s success as a runway model. It is easier to name the shows without Bella than otherwise.

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